The Body + Anemone Skirt

I was a very early bloomer. By the time I was 14 I wore a C-cup bra, and now I'm around a 36-38 D or DD depending on the brand (yes - they all fit differently). I'm also short - at least I consider 5'5" to be short. I remember shopping for clothes as a teenager and my father having to tell me that I really needed the Medium or Large shirt. Ouch.

I also recall another family member offering to "give me" a breast reduction for graduation when I earned my Master's. This same family member also taught me to keep my upper arms covered, never wear scoop neck tops and generally dislike my body as I knew it. Double ouch.

I lingered in this dislike of my body pretty much until I started sewing. I wore black to work - like head to toe - thinking this was more flattering. I never wore colors, let alone short skirts, dresses or short sleeves. 

So what changed?

Well, when you sew you must have a critical understanding of your body. Your measurements must be accurate lest you wind up with garments that are too large or too small. You also have to develop a keen eye for your "points of interest" and your "cover 'em ups." You begin to see your body in terms of proportion and unique design. You begin to notice styles and colors that flatter. And most important you begin to notice which garments make you feel like a rock star. The numbers you've listed as your measurements don't seem to matter too much after awhile. They are simply there to help you pick your pattern size.

On the topic of measurements, mine are as follows:

High Bust: 36"

Full Bust: 42" 

Waist: 34"

Hip: 42"

Someone on Instagram posted their sizes for their upcoming que of patterns and then lamented on how she used to be skinny. I wear larger sizes than her in all of those and I feel skinny!

What on earth is going on with women today? And what have seamstresses figured out that could benefit all women? I rarely see a sewing blogger complain about her pattern size. In fact, seeing so many different sizes helps the rest of us gauge the success of a pattern on our figure. I don't see the Curvy Sewing Collective sitting around over tea complaining about their bodies. All I see are perfectly fitted garments on a variety of sizes.

If you've made it this far, I have a few tips for those of you, seamstresses or not, who might be feeling pretty down about your God-given figures:

1. YOU ARE NOT YOUR MEASUREMENTS! (Say this 10x if you need to.)

There is no need to internalize the numbers on the tape and turn them into a reason to dislike yourself. Period. Your measurements serve one purpose and that is to help you choose your pattern size.

2. YOU ARE NOT WHAT PEOPLE COMPLIMENT.

When hubby and I visited Knoxville a few weeks ago, my mom noticed that I am wearing more scoop neck (read: low cut) tops (Nettie!) and my dad mentioned I was gussied up (Nettie + Zinnia). I don't blame them - they see me once a year so they have no idea that I dress this way everyday as an empowered woman. Either way, their reactions or comments don't have to shape how I dress myself or what I like to wear.

3. WEAR WHAT MAKES YOU FEEL AWESOME!

I strive to do this everyday - this includes some make-up, hair, my colorful outfits, and most recently, high Swedish Hasbeens. I learned quickly that black fabric is boring to sew, let alone wear everyday. So now I wear the colors that I love, whether or not some book tells me they are "my colors." 

4. SEW WHAT YOU LOVE TO WEAR!

There are many wonderful bloggers who exemplify this and make no apologies. I won't list them all, but we know who they are. Find what you love and create your personal style based on that, not what magazines or TV tell you to wear "for your body."

5. MAKE NO EXCUSE FOR LOOKING FABULOUS

A few years ago a church member did the readings for our Lessons & Carols service. She had just had her third child and was proud to wear an outfit that showed off her figure. AND MORE POWER TO HER! She looked amazing and you could tell that she felt amazing too.

And finally...

6. YOUR STYLE DOES NOT DICTATE YOUR CHARACTER

This one is important. We are told somehow that women who wear make-up/red nail polish/high heels/short skirts/lower cut shirts are somehow less intelligent, competent, pious, good, etc. This is a load of crap. I had my first full-time job at 22, M.S. by 23, bought a house (by myself) and got married at 24, got a better job by 25, etc. etc. And by God, if I want to wear a poufy skirt, scoop neck bodysuit and heeled sandals, while donning red nail polish and a poof in my hair, I will. These things don't say that I don't volunteer my time, lead Bible study, sing in choir, work with children, tithe to my church, etc. Don't let anyone put you in a box based on what you wear.

Speaking of low-cut shirts and short skirts...enter Nettie + Anemone!

I bought the Anemone pattern when Eleanore released Centauree and then it sat and sat, due to some fear that it wouldn't flatter my bit of a belly. (I guess I need to read the aforementioned tome.) 

I feel like my sewing mojo (sewjo from here on out) left me a few weeks ago and that this skirt might be a good pattern to try. I had some kelly green denim from JoAnn lingering in my stash so I pulled it out. 

Turns out, this pattern is super-flattering! I am really liking high-waisted skirts right now and this one is my new favorite. I cut the size 46 and extended the center front 5/8" to give me 34 1/2" at the waist or high ribs. I chose not to line this one as it's technically a wearable muslin - I faced the waist with double-fold bias tape in lavender, and serged and turned the hem about 1".

A sewing pal on Instagram recommended staying the waist so I fused some roll interfacing all along the waistline as well as on the zipper seam allowance. I used a 22" orange zipper cut to 14" for the back. I didn't finish my seams (I honestly thought this would be tossed) and I'm sure I'll regret it.

I used Wonder Tape to secure the zipper before I sewed it and as always, I have a lovely centered zip.

And now, here is the belly in question:

I blame this on singing. At my first voice lesson my teacher told me that women tend to suck in their gut and that in order to take a full, healthy breath, I would need to let this habit go. Four years later I think I've figured it out, but this little ponch is what I tend to hide with my garments. Zinnia, Chardon, Hollyburn view C, and now Anemone all help me achieve this. This singing space is also why I add so much ease at the waist in all of my dresses, but believe me, they are super-comfortable.

I think that's enough rambling for one day.

Pattern: Deer & Doe Anemone skirt
Size: 46 + 5/8" at center front
Fabric: Kelly green denim from JoAnn 1 1/4 yard of 60"
Thread: Gutermann from JoAnn
Needle: Schmetz 90/14 Denim 
Changes: no lining, DFBT at waistline, added fusible to waistline to prevent stretching & zip seam allowance, Wonder Tape at zip

How has sewing improved your body image?

Sewing Plans A/W 2014

Hubby and I returned from a 10-day trip a week ago today. We went to Lake Junaluska in NC for Music & Worship Arts Week, and to Knoxville, TN to visit family. 

If anyone tells you that visiting family = vacation, you should run far, far away from them. 

Chris and I are both only children of divorced parents, and none of the sets of parents get along, so we practically drove the entire time to see everyone. We've concluded that our vacation time in the future, which is few and far between, will be spent on taking an actual vacation.  

Moving on.

I think it's always helpful to have a sewing plan, or at least have a list in mind of future garments. I think I left my sewing mojo in NC because I haven't had much interest in sewing since we returned home a week ago. I'm hoping it will find me soon.

1. By Hand London Anna

If you haven't heard the wonderful news, Anna is now available as a PDF download.

Photo courtesy of By Hand London

Thank the heavens above because $25 for a pattern is just out of my budget. I know, I know - I love to support indie designers like the rest of you but my goodness. The PDF is right around $15 and some change and is only 24 pages which took maybe 45 minutes to tape together. My muslin looks great and I'm ready to move forward. I have this lovely white lawn with aqua stripe from Denver Fabrics that I think will make a nice Anna with a gathered skirt, probably from Emery.

(fabric photo)

2. Alder Shirt Dress
I don't yet have this pattern, but I LOVE Jen's new Alder Shirtdress. 

Photo Courtesy of Grainline Studio

Photo courtesy of Grainline Studio

I think this will be a fabulous transitional pattern seeing as how our fall and winter is really mild. AND I may already have some fabric in the stash for this.

3. Tailored Jacket

Yes, I still need to finish my tailored jacket. A project like this takes so much patience and concentration. Slowly but surely I'm getting there. 

4. Finish UFOs

My Sewaholic Gabriola needs a hem. I'm not sure how I feel about this skirt, and it only goes to prove further that Sewaholic patterns are not for my shape. The skirt makes me look like a column rather than a nice hourglass which I prefer.
Oh well, I'll still hem it and attempt to wear it. 
 

5. Stashbust

I've had this floral fabric at least a year and I really love it. I'm considering making another Zinnia with a white muslin underlining which I can then wear with a kelly green Nettie. Either that, or make a dress. Ugh. Can't decide. 

6. Royal Blue Coco

I really like the Coco pattern, but I'm afraid my kelly green version with the 1/2 sleeves and collar isn't flattering. I think this royal blue ponte from Girl Charlee will have 7/8 sleeves, or roughly the length of the Nettie 3/4 sleeves which is an attractive length for me.
 

  
7. Colette Moneta
I really, really, really love this dress. BUT my last version ended in disaster as I was attached the gather skirt to the bodice with the elastic on top. Suffice it to say that I had to cut the bodice shorter and rip out all of the serging on the skirt. I'm not sure it's salvagable, and it's gotten me scared to try-try again. I think I will lengthen the sleeve to more of a true 3/4 length rather than 1/2. I think a slightly longer sleeve will be a bit more flattering.

What else? I would love some more Netties, even though I currently have 6, what's a handful more?! I just love the pattern. Each one takes 30 minutes on the serger. Awesome.

I have some linen that I need to sew up as well. And my ever stagnant stash of wool, which I have little to no use for given the hot climate in which I live.

 What are your upcoming sewing plans? Are you a planner or more of a fly-by-the-seat type of seamstress?

 

FINISHED: Mint Gingham Emery

There's nothing like 50+ likes on Instagram to make a relatively introverted, normal gal feel like a rock star. This dress, my mint gingham Emery (sans sleeves) garnered 53 likes when I debuted it on Sunday, June 29. Wow. 

I bought four yards of this 1" mint gingham from Denver Fabrics. It's a poly/cotton blend which usually I don't like, but I loved the color and just had to have it. I underlined the entire garment in white cotton muslin.

After my Peony bodice fitting conundrum, I took the same logic and applied it to the Emery bodice, and it worked 100%. I did a small FBA on the size in between my high bust and low bust (so size 12) and it fit beautifully. I did lower the darts a bit but otherwise no other adjustments were made. 

After taking an Instagram vote, I went with sleeveless plus bow, although I can't wear a belt. I thought about some way to make it removable but decided just to tack it down.

I left off the sleeves (more practical in the heat) and finished the neckline and armholes with gingham bias binding.

For the hem, I zig-zagged 1/2" from the edge, turned the hem 2" and stitched, then pinked just for added anti-fraying.

I'm really pleased with my first ever Hong Kong seam finish! This is the center back seam below the zipper. Those zig-zags are from attaching the underlining (I think). Really pretty!

AND it wouldn't be a handmade garment if I didn't encounter a glaring flaw in my construction! Here it is. I'm going to blame the multiple layers of fabric on this one, but in reality there was a moment where I thought to myself that I should take the time to redo my pins, but then I went ahead. Next time I'll listen.

I wore this this past Sunday as well. Despite making sure that waist had enough "singing" ease, I still felt like this was a bit snug, maybe from the underlining. I also went back after making this and removed 3/4" from the bodice length which will help with the waist ease a bit.

This is a fabulous pattern for a beginner! Even though this version doesn't have sleeves, my muslins did and I have to say they are the easiest sleeves to ease EVER. There's practically zero ease in the sleeve cap so the entire process from gathering to stitching is so easy. 

I also added some additional notches just to keep my skirt back pieces straight - not necessary but helpful. Overall, a beautifully flattering pattern and super simple to sew up!

Pattern: Christine Haynes Emery

Size: size 12 bodice/14 waist, 3/4" FBA, lowered both bodice front darts, removed 3/4" length on bodice, size 14 skirt, size 12 sleeve.

Fabric: poly/cotton 1" mint gingham + white cotton muslin for underlining

Notions: Organ 80/12 needle; Gutermann Mara 100; regular zip; Wonder Tape for zipper; fusible knit tricot for zip seam allowance.

FINISHED: Hollyhock Linen Zinnia

I love the names given to colors, and this linen is no exception: Hollyhock. I bought this from Fabrics-Store.com and have been a fan of their linens for some time. This was my first time trying the lightweight linen and I think it works beautifully for a skirt like the Zinnia from Colette Patterns.

This color is Hollyhock, sadly no longer available. I knew that the fabric was too lightweight and semi-sheer to stand alone without a lining (say, as a dress), and the pleated version of Zinnia might sag with the weight of the pleats, so I went with version 1. Version 1 has a button placket unlike any I've seen. The fabric folds in on itself and is then top-stitched rather than attaching a facing that then folds. This placket is not interfaced and lacks the structure of a placket you'd see in a collared shirt. I'm not sure I'm 100% happy with the weight of it, and am considering ways to beef it up for future versions.

 

I do love the flare of the skirt and for that reason I've made several of these cut on the fold without the placket - you still get the pouf at the waist and flare at the hem without the placket down the front.

 

This version came together quickly and used 2 yards of linen. I had some heavy duty buttons in grey that worked well.

 

 

Linen wrinkles. It's just a fact of life that you have to accept it if you choose to work with the fabric. I love the way the fabric breaths in hot weather, how it floats in the wind, and that I can toss all of my linen makes into the washer without fear.

 

I did notice that the waistband on this version, which is the same size as my pleated Zinnias, feels more snug. I'm not sure if I made an error with the placket and buttons or what, but there's definitely less ease in this waistband compared to my others. I find I need 1/2" of ease at the waist and more if I'll be singing that day.

 

I did make one giant oops on this garment, which you can't see in the photo of me wearing it:

 

 

This just goes to show you that it doesn't matter how long you've been doing anything, mistakes are inevitable. I measured all around this to cut off the bias stretch and then found this. I liken this to completing a dress and zipping it up only the find the zipper doesn't match at the top (which I still do from time to time.) 

 

Are these the kinds of things that give our handmade garments character? Do they say, "This garment was made with love!"? This reminds me that no matter how often I sew (which is everyday) or how long I've been sewing (three years), I will make mistakes. The perfectionist in me hates this, but she's learning to let it go.

 

Pattern: Colette Zinnia

Size: 14 w/ length removed

Fabric: Hollyhock lightweight linen from fabrics-store.com

Needle: Schmetz 70/10 Micro

Thread: Gutermann Mara 100

Changes: Removed 4" length to 22" from waist

FINISHED: Blue Linen Chardon

I found myself on a sewing roll during May. Part of it was the motivation of Me Made May to wear handmade everyday, but the other part was my goal to sew down my fabric stash. If I have too many fabrics at once I tend to feel overwhelmed and find it hard to start projects. Having a smaller stash helps stay mentally focused.

I knew I wanted another Chardon skirt by Deer & Doe for spring, and I had just received a large order of linen from Fabrics-Store. I determined late last year that I only need to purchase fabric in what I consider to be my colors (blues, greens, purple/magenta, neutrals) and so I ordered 3 pieces of blue linen, all relatively the same color but slightly different. I can't remember which color this is, but it's medium weight and either royal blue, strong blue or olympian blue. Pardon the Me Made May photo. :-)

I added 1 1/2" of length to this version after finding my plaid wool version a bit short. I can't tell that it made that much of a difference to be honest. After making this version I went back and added some extra ease to the waist for more breathing room. The pleats do not release right away so there's a fair bit of structure up there.

I stitched the pleats using a triple stitch which I found to be more durable that a regular straight stitch. I may go back and top-stitch these the more I wear it.

I used a centered zipper. For some reason it ended up being shorter than I wanted (how does that happen?!) so I have to shimmy to get this one on. 

I used lightweight fusible for the facing and used an overcasting stitch around the edges rather than folding up to reduce bulk. I also stitched in the ditch of the pleats to hold down the facing.

Simple hem with Gutermann Mara 100 thread.

Linen wrinkles, ya'll, but I just love it. I love the rich colors and how it feels against the skin. I remember putting on a polyester garment one day after having worn natural fiber garments - I literally felt suffocated. I will take wrinkles any day over wearing synthetics. 

Pattern: Jupe de Chardon by Deer&Doe

Size: 46 plus ease added

Fabric: blue medium weight linen from Fabrics-Store

Thread: Gutermann Mara 100

Needle: Organ 80/12

Changes: length of version with band + 1 1/2" length; ease added to size 46

FINISHED: Colette Moneta

My husband and I are leaving today for a 12 day trip - we'll be at Lake Junaluska for Worship & Arts Week until next Friday, then we'll head home to Knoxville, TN to visit family and friends. This is the longest we will have been away from home EVER. I have to admit that visiting family isn't exactly my idea of vacation, but I'm looking forward to the trip nonetheless.

 

I am proud to say that only a small handful of the garments in my suitcase are RTW - everything else is me made! There's something fun and rewarding about packing a suitcase full of handmade lovelies!

 

Since we're leaving right after church (and will be in the car 6 hours) I knew I needed something comfortable yet stylish yet sing-able for today. Enter the Colette Patterns Moneta.

 

I bought this after the patterns and book had been released, and purchased the bundle from Colette Patterns (well worth the cost I think). My knit repertoire had mainly consisted of Coco from Tilly & the Buttons which is really the knit version of the Laurel shift dress (10 versions I have yet to blog). Coco is stitched by machine, but Moneta and Mabel really take your knit sewing skills up a notch.

 

The accompanying book, The Colette Guide to Sewing Knits, is really fantastic and assists you with taking your knit garments to the next level. I'm happy to say that my knit sewing has been expanded to include Mabel and the Nettie bodysuit.

 

Twin needles still scare me so I used a 2.5/2.5 zig-zag for the hem and sleeves. Tilly recommends this stitch for Coco and I rather like it. It's large enough to look decorative and stretch, but not so "I made this" looking. I do, however, have my eye on a coverstitch machine. :-O

I busted out the twin needle for the neckline, although this photo stinks. It's a nice technique - just watch your stitch line if you're using contrasting thread. You have to be nice and even otherwise it shows.

My one source of panic is using the clear elastic. JoAnn's didn't have 1/4" (but Wawak did!!) so I had 3/8" for this and I might prefer it. I feel like I have more room to work with. Stitching along 1/4" width of elastic is a bit taxing - doable but taxing. For this Moneta I attached the elastic to the skirt and then attached the rouched skirt to the bodice. My most recent attempt was to gather the skirt, then attach the elastic while attaching the skirt to the bodice. This ended badly and I now have a cropped bodice and a shorter skirt due to a serger incident. I'm hoping I can salvage it.

The fit was spot on - I followed my usual size for Colette Patterns (12/14) and made the size large. It fits beautifully. The fabric is coral ponte from Girl Charlee. The weight and stretch is really nice for this pattern, although for Mabel it's a bit light. I made a Mabel in the red colorway of this ponte and basically doubled it and it works well.

The fabric claims to be cotton/poly/spandex and I think this is accurate. It breaths nicely.

I want to make this again, but the elastic bit has been scared.

Pattern: Colette Moneta, 3/4 sleeves
Size: Large
Fabric: coral ponte from Girl Charlee
Needle: Schmetz 75/11 Stretch; regular twin for topstitching
Thread: Maxi-Lock in white for seams, white Gutermann for hems
Changes: Used 3/8" clear elastic out of necessity, no others

Do you have any tips or tricks when using elastic?

FINISHED: Coco by Tilly and the Buttons

I bought the Coco pattern the day it came out, and I bought three striped pontes from Girl Charlee the same day, and, of course, waited a few more months before actually making one. I really wish I'd made Coco sooner seeing as how it is the perfect transitional dress.

My muslin was a straight size 7, but what I ended up with here is a straight size 6. Remember that knits, even pontes, have some stretch in them. I went back after this version though and took the skirt A-line down to a size 5 to reduce it a bit.

This green version is a size 6 but tapered to a size 5 to reduce that hem curve. I also reduced the sleeved to 3/4 length. I thought the long sleeves bordered on nightgown, but I'm not sure. I also added the collar with the stripes running vertically. I might eventually add in the length I removed.

I used my machine zigzag stitch on .5 width, 2.5 length as suggested by Alyson Clair in The Colette Guide to Sewing Knits and it worked beautifully. I would recommend samples with various needles and stitches anytime you're working with a knit. I used a 2.5/2.5 zigzag for the sleeve and skirt hems per Tilly's instructions.

The instructions have you stay-stitch the neckline, then apply some stay tape when you hem, which I liked. In the future, I'll go ahead and fuse the knit stay tape to the neckline, sleeve hem and skirt hem before construction since it's easier than applying it in the round. I also added knit fusible to the collar but it literally had no give when I attached it to the neckline, so I might omit that next time.

I used kelly green Toldi-Lock thread from JoAnn based on Alyson Clair's recommendations. I had never considered why you might need to use finer thread with knits, but it makes sense.

Both of these fit on 2 yards of ponte fabric from Girl Charlee. I folded both selvedges to meet in the middle to conserve fabric. I prefer to do this if able since most knit garments have both front and back cut on the fold. 

These pontes are a blend of cotton/poly/spandex so they breath a bit better. I have this fabric in royal blue as well to make a third Coco, probably 2/4 sleeves without the collar. 

Pattern: Coco by Tilly and the Buttons PDF
Size: 6, 5 from waist to hem
Fabric: Striped ponte from Girl Charlee 2 yds
Thread: Gutermann Mara 100 & Toldi-Loc
Needle: Organ 90/14 Ballpoint
Stitch: Machine zigzag .5 width/2.5 length
Notions: Fusible tricot knit from Wawak cut into strips, stay tape