Thursday, June 19, 2014

FINISHED: Coco by Tilly and the Buttons

I bought the Coco pattern the day it came out, and I bought three striped pontes from Girl Charlee the same day, and, of course, waited a few more months before actually making one. I really wish I'd made Coco sooner seeing as how it is the perfect transitional dress.

My muslin was a straight size 7, but what I ended up with here is a straight size 6. Remember that knits, even pontes, have some stretch in them. I went back after this version though and took the skirt A-line down to a size 5 to reduce it a bit.

This green version is a size 6 but tapered to a size 5 to reduce that hem curve. I also reduced the sleeved to 3/4 length. I thought the long sleeves bordered on nightgown, but I'm not sure. I also added the collar with the stripes running vertically. I might eventually add in the length I removed.

I used my machine zigzag stitch on .5 width, 2.5 length as suggested by Alyson Clair in The Colette Guide to Sewing Knits and it worked beautifully. I would recommend samples with various needles and stitches anytime you're working with a knit. I used a 2.5/2.5 zigzag for the sleeve and skirt hems per Tilly's instructions.

The instructions have you stay-stitch the neckline, then apply some stay tape when you hem, which I liked. In the future, I'll go ahead and fuse the knit stay tape to the neckline, sleeve hem and skirt hem before construction since it's easier than applying it in the round. I also added knit fusible to the collar but it literally had no give when I attached it to the neckline, so I might omit that next time.

I used kelly green Toldi-Lock thread from JoAnn based on Alyson Clair's recommendations. I had never considered why you might need to use finer thread with knits, but it makes sense.

Both of these fit on 2 yards of ponte fabric from Girl Charlee. I folded both selvedges to meet in the middle to conserve fabric. I prefer to do this if able since most knit garments have both front and back cut on the fold. 

These pontes are a blend of cotton/poly/spandex so they breath a bit better. I have this fabric in royal blue as well to make a third Coco, probably 2/4 sleeves without the collar. 

Pattern: Coco by Tilly and the Buttons PDF
Size: 6, 5 from waist to hem
Fabric: Striped ponte from Girl Charlee 2 yds
Thread: Gutermann Mara 100 & Toldi-Loc
Needle: Organ 90/14 Ballpoint
Stitch: Machine zigzag .5 width/2.5 length
Notions: Fusible tricot knit from Wawak cut into strips, stay tape


  1. Both your Coco's are really cute, I wasn't sure about this pattern when it came out but it looks like the perfect comfort dress. Can't wait to see your blue one!

    1. Thank you! They are so cute and effortless! I'm not sure about the collar with 3/4 sleeves but I'm sure it will be fine when I finally wear it out!