Friday, August 8, 2014

FINISHED: New Look 6125

I would be lying if I claimed this as a recent make. My sewjo is still on the fritz, although I've been intrigued by the thought of making some pants. 

I first made New Look 6125 (my tissue says 0165 - misprint) in December 2012. I was so thrilled to find a commercial pattern that didn't require a FBA in my usual size (16). I first made this in a royal and black wool blend houndstooth, and have made about 10 total since then. This chambray was #2. 

That's Louie by the way. We brought a family of three cats with us to GA when we moved two years ago, a mom and two boys. Johnny died suddenly in January, and we adopted Louie about 3 months later. He might look big but he's still a kitten - and very sweet. 

Back to the dress: I like this style for several reasons. First, it flares from the waist down to the hip. In doing so it detracts from an ample bust, although I'm less concerned about covering the girls up all the time like I used to be. Second, there are only two bust darts, none in the back, and only two pattern pieces. I drafted an all-in-one facing and have used it successfully, but this version I used bias binding. 

The pattern calls for a full lining, which I determined was optional, although I used it one two versions in cotton lawn - one a gorgeous yellow and orange floral, the other black with large white polka dots. I've also successfully made hacks to this pattern: removing 2" of length for a cute but short summer dress and/or beach cover-up; drafting a button band and collar for a shirtdress, although the collar looks a bit Star Trek; adding a 2" wide center front pleat like you see on this version. I simply extended the CF 2" off the fold and stitched it down ala Sorbetto. I also added buttons.

Now that I'm remembering, these buttons were found in a sewing case I purchased at an estate sale in Knoxville. I'm glad I was able to give them a new home. Version #3 also had the front band and buttons, but it's in magenta linen/cotton and needs to be hemmed an additional 1" to keep from looking dowdy.

This chambray was purchased from Denver Fabrics years ago. I bought 5 yards and managed to make this dress, a Sureau and a Miette skirt. I love love love the weight and color and really should have bought more as I can't seem to find anything to compare. It's nice and opaque unlike the Robert Kaufmann chambrays I've recently purchased. Maybe one day I'll find it again. 

This is one of my small collection of TNT patterns, and I'm strongly considering making several in linen to get me through the heat of August. I'm also wondering if maybe just sewing something will get my sewjo to kick in. This dress does NOT cling to any part of you and it's so comfy. I'm also considering adding a sleeve to make it very 60s chic.

Pattern: New Look 6125
Size: Size 16 based on high bust and enough ease to forgo a FBA
Fabric: Chambray from Denver Fabrics
Needle: Schmetz 80/12
Thread: Gutermann from JoAnn
Changes: Added 2" center front pleat; hand-stitched 4 buttons; no lining - finished with bias binding; overlock + 1" hem.

What's your go-to pattern when the livin's easy (aka summertime)?


  1. Always a Renfrew. I found a knit with a nice border print and had fun deciding where to put the pattern pieces. Then I lost my momentum because the fabric was an impulse buy (sale table) and not sure if I like the colour. But it is ready to go all I need to do is get my machine out.

    1. I've never tried the Renfrew although there's no reason not to - it gets such great reviews!

  2. Your outfit looks amazing and I adore the shoes!

  3. I've actually got this pattern but never made it up. I was a bit concerned that it might be a bit tent like going by the photo and also a bit too warm with the lining. Yours is really cute though and looks like a perfect little A-line dress! So pleased you shared this, can't believe I've had such a great pattern in the stash. Finishing with bias tape is a great idea too!

    1. It really is a cute pattern. My cotton lawn w/ cotton lining versions are super comfy, and I have a plaid wool that's been cut out since December that will definitely have a lining. Definitely try the pattern! I found there to be a sweet spot with the length though - it needs to be short (on me at least) to keep from looking matronly!